The passage from Blidö to Norrtälje is so routine it’s not worth mentioning. Suffice it to say Richard, Mark and I spent a bittersweet few hours in glorious sunshine heading down into the Norrtälje inlet after a week together none of us will soon forget. Mark left the following morning and Richard the following day. That almost brought the summer full circle for me. Now I just had to get the boat up to Öregrund and leave her in the capable hands of the folks at Grepen Marin.
But instead of heading out into the Baltic again I thought it might be fun to take the inland waterway instead. Those clever Swedes have built plenty of these canal-like routes over the years, which bisect fields, meadows, wetlands and sometimes small towns, with reliably-timed rotating or lifting bridges where needed to enable both road and waterborne traffic. Plus the weather was gorgeous and the countryside was heaving with midsummer fecundity. It’s an easy 50nm, nicely broken up by Grisslehamn at the 30nm mark, so an easy two-day jaunt. How could I say no?
For a more interactive version of this map, click the link below.
Although I am now an ardent sailor, my boyhood years were spent on the inland waterways of England, specifically the Thames, and I still have a very soft spot for inland routes. They have a peace and beauty all their own, and the subculture of river life – the towns, hostelries and commerce that have sprung up to support it – are just as resonant and fascinating to me as the wilder shores of the sea. They are just a little more…..domesticated.
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1QnnZzZi_Wn8tbYDHtq_1X5V89yZkGr8A&usp=sharing
For those who haven’t had the pleasure of visiting this amazing country, the beauty of the place in the summer can be a surprise. For those of us lucky enough to be regulars, it really never does get old…
After a very easy two days, I was back in Oregrund. And not a moment too soon. Once I had tied into my slip and enjoyed a chilled beer, I noticed the a cold front coming in. The following morning dawned cold and blustery, which seemed a symbolic transition from another idyllic summer in Scandinavian waters. The crew at Grepen Marin are busy this time of year, and have no interest in lifting the boat out and letting you winterize it yourself. Instead, Lennart, the head honcho, told me somewhat gruffly to just leave her in the slip and he would ‘get round to it’ in a week or so. And although I make it sound suboptimal, it’s a very easy solution for me. I simply gather my things up, empty and scrub the head, fridge, food lockers, etc, wipe down the surfaces with a vinegar/water mix and pack up my dunnage.
There’s many things to look back on at this time, mostly memories of another summer I’ll never forget. But I also look somewhat vainly at myself in the mirror (forgive me my narcissistic moment). I’m always happy at what two months living like a viking does to my body, both in shape and hue. But I always need a good shave too, since you can have too much of a good thing.
As I put the boat away and began the voyage back to Los Angeles in August of 2019 I had no idea of the changes about to sweep the world in the coming months. The global pandemic meant there was no return to Sweden for me in 2020, or 2021 come to that. At time of writing my ticket is booked and my passages planned for summer 2022.
Friends are scheduled to join me and I’m hoping for a year of renewal, not just for me, but for the world at large. The plan is to revisit the Aland Islands, and the Stockholm Archipelago, before heading down to Gotland and from there traversing the Gota canal to Sweden’s famed west coast before putting the boat away in Henan for another year. After that, who knows?
Wherever life on Arcturus takes me, I hope you’ll come along for the ride.
Thanks for your time…and fair winds to you all.
