Wed. 7/3/19
Dep. 8.40am arrive 6.18pm. 52.3nm. 9 hrs 38 minutes.
For a higher-resolution map of this route, click HERE:
Given that this was longest passage of our trip and that I needed to be reasonably alert for my newspaper deadline the following day, I made the decision that speed was more important than sailing. The wind started off light as we motored out and turned south east towards the Estonian capital of Talinn. It built during the day, as did the swell, but sailing dead downwind is not my favorite option. If the passage were only 25nm rather than 50, and were I not going into a new harbor in a new country where I had no idea of the bureaucracy which awaited me, I would have opted for some deep jibing angles and taken a little longer. But that was not the case. So we motored with a growing swell behind us and made very good time in increasingly sporty conditions.
As usual Kevin was an absolute champ at the helm, and we were surprised at the number of ferry ships that passed us en route. The Talinn-Helsinki run is clearly a very well traveled route. Shortly after 6pm we pulled in to the big harbor where the cruise ships dock, before turning into the narrow channel to the Old Town Marina where I had booked a berth for two nights. Facilities were excellent and security seemed at a premium compared to what we had just experienced. Upon arrival you are essentially trapped in the marina behind a tall fence until you call the marina office on the intercom and are given a passcode. You then pay for your berth in the excellently equipped club house, where service was efficient but, by Scandi standards a little stone-faced. We found this to be the case in Talinn, where the long occupation by the Russians seems to have hardened some of the locals.
Echoes of the Hanseatic League 
Renaissance Faire escapee? 
PIG OUT: Kevins choice for dinner 
Your starter for ten: Pickled herring, cottage cheese and red onion 
Joy unconfined: Kevin contemplates the pig knuckle
Other good features of the marina were an excellent nearby supermarket and a superb liquor store, where I spent $200 on wine, beer and liquor for the hard-drinking company I was expecting later in the trip. We had a quick dinner on the boat before taking a brief look at Old Town and then turning in.
Thursday brought deadline for me while Kevin explored. Since it was his last night on the boat before heading to Riga for a mini European tour, he kindly bought me dinner in old town at a meat -eaters paradise. We feasted on a huge platter of dead animals, where a glistening pig knuckle took pride of place, topping a supporting cast of meatballs, sausages chicken thighs and sauerkraut. Cue food coma. At least for me.
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